The Ultimate Guide to the Best Paint for 3D Printed Models: Everything You Need to Succeed

You’ve spent hours (maybe days!) dialing in your printer settings, waiting for that perfect print to finish, and carefully removing supports. You’re holding a screen-accurate 3D printed kit in your hands, and it looks incredible. But now comes the part that can feel a little daunting: painting it.

We get it. Whether you’re building a massive diorama for your Black Series collection or customizing a 1:6 scale head sculpt, the paint job is what brings the "Used Universe" to life. At Redflare Model Studio, we’re obsessed with that lived-in, grimy, Star Wars-inspired aesthetic. But to get there, you need the right tools and the right knowledge.

In this guide, we’re breaking down everything we’ve learned about the best paints for 3D printed models, from the resin vs. PLA debate to the eternal Citadel vs. Vallejo showdown. Let’s get stuck in.

Step 1: Material Matters – Resin vs. PLA Prep

Before you even crack open a bottle of paint, you need to understand the surface you’re working on. Adhesion is the name of the game here.

Resin Models (SLA/DLP)

Most of our high-detail kits, like our creature head sculpts or the Kusak model kit, are printed in resin. Resin is fantastic for detail, but it can be picky about paint if not prepped correctly.

• Cleanliness is key: Always ensure your resin prints are fully cured and washed in isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Any leftover resin or skin oils will prevent paint from sticking.
• Light Sanding: We recommend a very light sand with high-grit sandpaper (400-600 grit) on larger surfaces to give the primer something to "bite" into.
• The Prime Directive: Never skip the primer. A high-quality plastic-safe spray primer is essential.

PLA Models (FDM)

If you’re working on larger diorama pieces like trench walls or crates, you might be handling PLA.

• Layer Lines: The main challenge with PLA is those pesky layer lines. You’ll want to use a "filler primer" and sand it back to get a smooth, screen-accurate finish.
• Heat Sensitivity: Be careful if you use a hair dryer to speed up paint drying, PLA can warp if it gets too hot!

Step 2: The Paint Choice – Acrylics vs. Lacquers

This is where the community usually splits into two camps. Here is our take on which one you should choose for your hobby desk.

Water-Based Acrylics (The Gold Standard)

For 90% of your work, water-based acrylics are the way to go. They are low-odor, easy to thin with water, and incredibly forgiving. If you make a mistake, you can usually wipe it off before it sets. Brands like Citadel and Vallejo fall into this category.

Lacquers and Enamels

Lacquers are much "hotter" (chemically aggressive) and provide a rock-solid finish. They are brilliant for basecoating if you use an airbrush, as they dry almost instantly and are very durable.

Pro Tip: Please review the safety instructions for lacquers before ordering. They have strong fumes, so you’ll need a mask and a well-ventilated space. We generally stick to acrylics for detail work and lacquers for heavy-duty priming or specific metallic finishes.

Step 3: The Great Debate – Citadel vs. Vallejo

If you’ve walked into a hobby shop recently, you’ve seen the rows of pots and bottles. Which one is better for your Star Wars kits?

Citadel (Games Workshop)

We love Citadel for their washes and technical paints. Their "Nuln Oil" and "Agrax Earthshade" are basically "liquid talent" for adding depth to droids and greeblies.

• Pros: Incredible coverage, fantastic washes, and "Technical" paints for effects like rust or slime.
• Cons: The "pot" design can lead to paint drying out, and they are generally more expensive per ml.

Vallejo (Model Color & Model Air)

For that "Used Universe" look, Vallejo is often our go-to. Their Model Color range has a massive selection of desaturated, realistic military greys, tans, and olives that feel right at home in a galaxy far, far away.

• Pros: Dropper bottles make mixing easy and keep paint fresh. Their "Model Air" line is pre-thinned for airbrushes, which is a massive time-saver.
• Cons: Some colors require a bit more shaking to get the pigment mixed properly.

Our Verdict: We use a mix! Vallejo for the base colors and airbrushing, and Citadel for the specific "magic" washes and technical details.

Step 4: Nailing the "Used Universe" Look

Star Wars isn't clean. Everything is oily, dusty, and has seen better days. To get that authentic look on your Redflare kits, you need to master weathering.

1. Base Coating: Start with your main color (e.g., an off-white for a stormtrooper or a dull grey for a droid).
2. The Wash: Apply a dark brown or black wash into the recesses. This instantly makes the mechanical details pop.
3. Chipping: Take a small piece of sponge, dip it in a dark metallic or dark grey paint, dab most of it off on a paper towel, and lightly "stipple" the edges of your model. This mimics paint chipping off to reveal the metal underneath.
4. Streaking: Use a thin brush to pull "grime" down from bolts or panels. This looks like oil or rainwater has been running down the surface for years.

BTW, if you're looking for inspiration on how a finished weathered piece should look, check out our weathered Sandtrooper backpack: it’s a masterclass in realistic grime.

Technical Summary for Success

• For Resin: Wash, Cure, Prime, Paint (Acrylics).
• For PLA: Sand, Filler Primer, Sand again, Paint.
• For the "Used Universe": Focus on desaturated colors (Vallejo) and heavy weathering (Citadel washes).

Painting is a journey, and every model you finish makes you a better maker. If you're just starting, don't be afraid to experiment on some smaller greeblies before tackling a major project like a full droid or creature.

If you ever get stuck, we’ve got assembly instructions for many of our kits to help you along the way. And don't forget: we offer free worldwide shipping on orders over $300, so it’s the perfect excuse to stock up on multiple scales!

Happy painting, everyone! We can’t wait to see what you create. If you want to stay in the loop with our latest releases and get exclusive deals, make sure to join our VIP club. We promise not to spam your inbox: only the good stuff.